נחתנו בגרמניה בשעת ערב מאוחרת למעט יותר מיממה, כשהמטרה היא להצליח לחוות את חוויית הכדורגל הגרמני במיטבה בזמן זה. עם הנחיתה, גילינו שהמזוודה של שרוני לא נשלחה ועודנה בספרד, מה שעיכב אותנו מעט בשדה התעופה, אותו לבסוף עזבנו עם הבטחה שהמזוודה תגיע למחרת.
דילוג מהיר אל הבוקר למחרת: לאחר ארוחת בוקר מספקת, שמנו פעמינו לתחנת הרכבת של דיסלדורף על-מנת לקחת רכבת למחוז חפצנו-דורטמונד. דורטמונד כשלעצמה נחשבת לעיר מנומנמת למדי, שיש בה שתי אטרקציות עיקריות: הראשונה היא קבוצת הכדורגל המקומית, שסוחפת אחריה את תושבי העיר והאזור, והשנייה היא מוזיאון תולדות הכדורגל הגרמני, שסוקר את תולדות המפעלים הלאומיים השונים (גם בתקופת פירוד גרמניה) וגם את תולדות אחת מנבחרות הכדורגל המצליחות והמעוטרות בעולם. אנחנו תכננו לפקוד את שתיהן.
כשהגענו לדורטמונד, הופתענו לגלות שלמרות שנותרו עוד כשש שעות לפתיחת המשחק, הקרנבל כבר החל: אלפי אוהדי דורטמונד עטורי חולצות וצעיפים שטפו את רחובות העיר ומיחאו אותה בקולות שירה ובניחוחות בירה כבר משעות הצהריים המוקדמות, ובכל רכבת שהגיעה נוספו כמה מאות נוספות של אוהדים נלהבים. אנחנו מצידנו רכשנו כרטיסים למוזיאון תולדות הכדורגל הגרמני, ונכנסנו למה שהייתה אחת מן התצוגות המרתקות שראיתי לאחרונה.
המוזיאון, שנחנך בשנת 2015, הוא ככל הנראה המוזיאון הכי חדשני, ומודרני בו הייתי-מגוון מוצגים חדשים וחדישים, תצוגת תלת-מימד מושקעת ומיצגים אור-קוליים הם רק חלק ממה שניתן למצוא במקום הזה, שחובק בתוכו גם פיסות רבות של היסטוריה, כגון חולצות משחק של אגדות הכדורגל הגרמני לדורותיו, כדורים ממשחקים היסטוריים ושלל מוצגים ומזכרות נוספות מתקופות שונות. שמחתי לגלות שישנו אזור שלם במוזיאון שמוקדש לנבחרת הנשים של גרמניה, שנחשבת גם היא לאחת מהנבחרות המעוטרות והטובות בהיסטוריה של הענף. לאחר הקרנה תלת-מימדית של כרבע שעה, נכנסנו חקודש הקודשים של המוזיאון-היכל הגביעים. והנה, ממש לנגד עיני, מונחים להם ארבעה גביעי עולם בהם זכתה המאנשאפט לאורך השנים, כשהטרי שבהם, מהמונדיאל האחרון, צובט מעט בליבי על אותו הפסד בהארכה בגמר. לגביעים, כנראה גם בגלל התאורה, הייתה סביבם הילה כמעט קדושה. אמנם ראיתי את הגביע כבר מאות אם לא אלפי פעמים באמצעי תקשורת חזותית שונים, אך כשהוא עמד שם לנגד עיניי לא יכולתי שלא להתפעל מיופיו המרשים, העיצוב הדקדקני והאלגנטי ובעיקר היוקרה והעוצמה שהוא משדר, למי שמבין את המשמעות שלו.
לאחר היכל הגביעים, נכנסים לתצוגה בה מוסבר על שיטות אימון וגישות לענף של מאמנים מצליחים-גרמנים ולא גרמנים-לאורך המאה האחרונה. זאת על-מנת להסביר את ההבדלים בתפיסת המשחק בין השנים, ולראות אילו סגנונות הביאו להצלחה באילו תקופות וכיצד. לבסוף, נכנסנו לתצוגה של הליגה הגרמנית לדורותיה והתפעלנו מכמה ההיסטוריה של הענף בגרמניה מקיפה, מה שגרם לי לחשוב שהיום הדומיננטיות של באיירן בליגה נראית כמובנת מאליה, אבל ככל הנראה עוד 20-30 שנה התקופה הזו תיזכר כאנקדוטה היסטורית נוספת בעבר המפואר של הכדורגל הגרמני, וקבוצה אחרת תשלוט בזירה המקומית באופן שלא משתמע לשתי פנים. אז עצה אישית שלי היא שכמידה ויוצא לכם לנסוע למשחק בדורטמונד, אל תוותרו על המוזיאון! אתם לא תתחרטו.
כשסיימנו את הסיור, אכלנו קאריוורסט ראשונה (לצד בירה קרה כמובן) והתחלנו לצעוד לכיוון האצטדיון. הצעידה נמשכה כ-40 דקות, כשבשום שלב לא היינו צריכים להיעזר באמצעי ניווט משום סוג-פשוט עקבנו אחרי האוהדים שנהרו בכיוון המגרש שעות רבות לפני המשחק. הבנו שאנחנו מתקרבים כשהתחלנו לראות היאספויות גדולות יותר ויותר של אוהדי דורטמונד סביב דוכני הנקניקיות שבצידי הדרכים, עד שלבסוף הגענו לאזור האצטדיון.
עשרות אלפי אוהדים צהובים-שחורים שטפו את האזור וצבאו על דוכני הבירה והנקניקיות הרבים שסביב האצטדיון, באופן שלא יכול לא להעלות את ההתרגשות בקרבנו לקראת המשחק. אספנו את הכרטיסים שלנו, ואחרי עוד כמה נקניקיות ובירה נכנסנו לאצטדיון, כשעתיים לפני המשחק.
שפר עלינו מזלנו וזכינו לקבל זווית נהדרת לא רק לצפייה במשחק, אלא גם ב”חומה הצהובה” – היציע הדרומי הידוע לשמצה. למי שלא מכיר את הנתונים-מדובר ביציע עמידה אחד (לא מופרד לעליון ותחתון כפי שנהוג היום) שמכיל כמעט 25,000 מקומות (יציע העמידה הגדול באירופה), שמאוכלסים באופן שיטתי ע”י מנויים ותיקים של דורטמונד, אוהדים שרופים שלא מפספסים לעולם משחק בית ומציגים בכל פעם מחדש תצוגות עידוד אדירות, לעתים גם עם תפאורות עוצרות נשימה.
כמה מילים על המשחק, טרם תחילתו-מדובר במשחק חשוב לשתי הקבוצות, שרוצות לבסס את עצמן במקום המוביל לליגת האלופות בעונה הבאה. גם לברקוזן וגם דורטמונד הגיעו למשחק כשבחזקתן 51 נקודות במקומות ה-3/4.
לברקוזן, ללא השוער המצויין ברנד לנו שנפצע, מחזיקה בסגל מהאיכותיים בגרמניה השנה, שכולל בו כוכבים כמו האחים סוון ולארס בנדר, לאון ביילי, קווין וולאנד ויוליאן בראנדט. דורטמונד, עם יחס השערים השני בטיבו בבונדסליגה, מגיעה למשחק בכשירות מלאה של כלל השחקנים (מלבד בטשואיי שנפצע בהפסד הכואב לשאלקה), ונותנת לחלוץ האנגלי הצעיר ג’יידון סאנצ’ו שהגיע ממנצ’סטר סיטי הזדמנות בחוד, לצד הכוכבים המוכרים בהתקפה-גצה, רויס, פיליפ ופוליסיץ’.
המשחק התחיל, והאווירה מטורפת. האוהדים של דורטמונד לא מפסיקים לשיר ולנופף בעשרות דגלים, בעוד גם לברקוזן מילאה את יציע אוהדי החוץ שלה באולטראס נלהבים שדאגו להביע נוכחות ולהראות שיש עוד צד במאבק הזה. עוברות 13 דקות בלבד, וזה 1-0 לדורטמונד! שער בכורה לג’יידון סאנצ’ו בבונדסליגה לאחר טעות קשה בהגנת לברקוזן, והאוהדים יוצאים מגדרם. כמה דקות מאוחר יותר, שער אדיר של רויס נפסל בשימוש ב-var ע”י השופטים, והקהל האדיר של דורטמונד מביע את דעתו בשריקות בוז צורמות כלפי השופטים. דקה 37, פנדל מוצדק לדורטמונד! ורויס מחטיא!
אחרי מחצית אדירה של דורטמונד, היא יורדת להפסקה ביתרון מזערי של 1-0 שלחלוטין לא משקף את פערי הרמות על המגרש: דורטמונד שוטפת את הדשא במשחק מהיר, התקפי ואסתטי, בעוד לברקוזן נראית אנמית ולא מצליחה לייצר מצבים. המחצית השנייה מתחילה, ועוד איזו מחצית! כבר 10 דקות מפתיחת המחצית, רויס מכפיל את התוצאה. אחרי בישול ענק בנגיעה של מריו גצה, רויס עובר את השוער ומגלגל את הכדור לרשת החשופה, וזה 2-0. 8 דקות מאוחר יותר הגיע השער השלישי, ואיזה שער ענק זה היה. סאנצ’ו הצעיר קיבל כדור מהאוויר מגצה באגף, עצר אותו בצורה מדהימה על העקב והעביר רוחב למקסימיליאן פיליפ שלא התבלבל וכבש את השלישי. רויס עוד הספיק לבעוט פצצה למשקוף, בטרם כבש את הרביעי של דורטמונד-כדור רוחב חכם של סאנצ’ו השאיר אותו לבד מול השוער, והוא נגח פנימה את הרביעי בקלילות. המשחק הסתיים, והאוהדים של דורטמונד ממשיכים לשיר ולעודד ביציעים. זכינו לקבל תצוגת תכלית מרהיבה, גם של כדורגל וגם של עידוד. איזו דרך מדהימה לסיים את הטיול הזה!
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